Arrived in Nuuk
First impressions from a non-planning traveller
I’ve made it to Nuuk. After an early start in Stockholm and a long journey, I finally arrived, and the adventure kicked off immediately at the airport.
The bags transited from Stockholm took their sweet time. I waited a couple of hours, never quite sure they’d show up. They did. In the middle of the chaos I forgot my little bag with paddles on the luggage track, realised it as the airport busdriver (who didn’t take cards) was leaving, and had to sprint for getting cash at the airport. I also blanked on my credit card PIN at the ATM. Classic sleep-deprived traveller moves, not age, right?! Luckily I fooled Murphy's law and had a backup card.
Finding my accommodation was another mission. I jumped off the local, yellow bus #3 at what looked like a convenient spot. With 28 kg of luggage it was anything but: straight uphill, then downhill, then up again! Pro tip: take a taxi on day one in Nuuk. But who's complaining, the air is fresh and the sun is bright!
My street's name Manngua, on the peninsula Nussuaq, was shared by three different sections, so I stopped a friendly local for help. He was more or less fluent in five languages (normal here, apparently) and genuinely went out of his way to assist. Big thanks to that first Hans for the directions and the nice chat – note: he is not the same Hans who organises the kayak club. See below.
Settling in and soaking up the town
I’m staying at a simple but excellent hostel up on Manngua, about a 30 minute walk from the centre and fairly close to the Art Museum (although there are lots of staircases on the path inbetween). It has good WiFi, a kitchen, floor heating for cold nights, and a nice veranda. Perfect base camp.
Nuuk is bigger and more spread out than I expected, with plenty of hills and stairs. Around 25k inhabitants would make almost half of Greenlands population citizens of Nuuk. Walking down to the centre and back with shopping was solid exercise. The weather flips on a regular basis: yesterday sunny and around 7°C, today 2°C and raining in the morning. You just shrug it off here. UPDATE: it stopped raining at 9, got sunny at 10 and now after midningt, the sun is still shining on all high buildings, as well as our porch. It is not really midninght sun but darn close, taking timezones into consideration.
Today I stumbled upon a race, streetfood and a live concert in the square, a synth guy and a rapper performing for a crowd. I should probably know their names but It's my second day in Greenland so excuse my ignorance! Great atmosphere and a nice surprise on a random walk.
The Nuuk Kayak Club & Greenlandic hospitality
My own kayak is delayed until June 30, so I’ve been hanging around the Nuuk Qajaq Club today. I was told not to be shy, so I sat down for coffee and immediately felt welcome. I met the club’s key organiser Hans, old Jens (late seventies and a former strong roller), competition roller Ari, and several family members who were all pitching in, like preparing a fresh seal skin for drying, as you do. Nice to see a glimpse of qajaq tradition and life here.
Aron, who grew up to call Hans his foster father, was kind enough to drive me to Nuussuup Atuarfia (the school where all the competition teams will stay). He dropped off a fridge. Probably so we can keep some cold beers ready! More than 20 Greenlanders have already arrived, with another 35 expected tomorrow. The organisers are taking great care of everyone: they’re serving breakfast even before the competition starts and there will be a closing dinner afterwards. It’s shaping up to be a fantastic event.
Practical notes
A rental car for the group would make life much easier. Everything is quite far apart and carrying wet gear up endless stairs gets old fast.
Pack a good rain/wind jacket, hat, sunglasses, and solid shoes. Shorts are optional.
Get a local SIM card right away! Roaming prices are painful.
Camping near town without a car looks challenging, but the wild landscape is tempting. May have to do it anyway ;)
Travel alone?
I’m alone here since I am not uncomfortable with my own thoughts, but the warmth of the people here keeps pulling my mouth into a smile and conversation is mostly easy. Everyone I’ve met on the street, at the club, or just passing by, takes time to talk and help if needed. Generally passers by will nod or say hi. It feels refreshingly human, like stepping back to Åre, Sweden, where I used to live, in the old days.
Can’t wait to get my kayak, to paddle around, to explore more, and meet the rest of the crews. More photos and updates coming soon.
So to conclude
What could I have done better by planning and what would be guaranteed to not go wrong?
I think I may have earned an hour at the airport by booking the stay in advance. Apart from that, it would have been gruelling to have an itenerary for the first days, places to see, visit etc. I rather have a few extra days and things will sort themselves out. I got a super cheap accomodation by chance, very close to the designated spot. Intuition said it was The Place but I wasn't sure. There is not much I could have planned better in advance, save for having a friend to meet upon arrival, who in turn would have planned.
For all you strict planners out there: relax and it will come to you!
Qujana! (Thank you) to everyone making this memorable.
//Somewhere on a hill in Nuuk, at Isi4U